Hair styling composition

ABSTRACT

A hair non-permanent styling composition comprising: i) an oligosaccharide comprising 3 to 7 sugar units in which the linkage group between the sugar units is an α1-4 link; and ii) at least one further ingredient selected from the group consisting of a suitable carrier, a styling polymer or a surfactant.

The invention relates to non-permanent hair styling compositions.

The current hair market has a wide range of styling products. A commonway to retain a particular hairstyle is to apply a hairspray, cream,mousses, gel, lotions or wax. The materials in these compositions aregenerally film forming agents, resins, gums, and/or adhesive polymers.Good holding power is one attribute a consumer looks for in stylingproducts, as is a natural feel to the hair.

The styling market can be classified in various sub-sets based on thedesired styling effect; one such sub-set is products for straighteningthe hair.

A problem with straightened hair is that once the straightening processhas taken place it tends to increase in volume and appear fluffy, thisis especially troublesome in humid conditions.

Sugars and sugar derivatives are one class of the countless number ofcompounds that have been added to hair care compositions. US2001/0022967 discloses a hair styling composition comprising an activeholding polymer and a sugar.

WO2004/037217 describes heat activated durable styling compositionscomprising saccharides and film forming agents.

U.S. Pat. No. 5,507,970 discloses detergent composition comprising sugarbased surfactants, fatty acid and mono or oligosaccharides. Thecompositions of this disclosure would not be suitable for styling hair.

WO 2008/012733 discloses compositions for permanently shaping hair. Thecomposition comprises a N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide as the active agentand a range of swelling and penetration enhancement agents includingmaltotriose.

The present invention has now found that some sugars can be used tostraighten hair and (decrease volume) to retain this straightened style.

The present invention relates to a non-permanent hair stylingcomposition comprising:

-   -   i) an oligosaccharide comprising 3 to 7 sugar units in which the        linkage group between the sugar units is a α1-4 link; and    -   ii) at least one further ingredient selected from the group        consisting of a suitable carrier, a styling polymer or a        surfactant.

This invention also relates to a method of non-permanently styling haircomprising the step of applying to the hair a composition as describedabove.

The invention further relates to the use an oligosaccharide comprising 3to 7 sugar units wherein the linkage group between the sugar units arean α1-4 link, to style hair.

It is further preferred if the oligosaccharide comprises from 3 to 5sugar units, particularly preferred are maltotriose and/ormaltotetraose.

The oligosaccharide may be in the form of a syrup, a preferred syrup ismaltotetraose syrup (G4 or G4H ex Hayashibara).

The level of disaccharides present in the total composition is from 0.05wt % to 49 wt %, more preferably from 0.2 wt % to 5 wt %, mostpreferably from 0.5 wt % to 4 wt %.

In many aspects of this invention it is highly desirable if thecomposition comprises a styling aid.

Particularly useful as styling aids with this invention are hair stylingpolymers. Hair styling polymers are well known articles of commerce andmany such polymers are available commercially which contain moietieswhich render the polymers cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic innature. The polymers may be synthetic or naturally derived.

Styling aids such as vinylic polymer are preferred, in particular blockcopolymers.

The amount of the hair styling polymer may range from 0.1 to 10%,preferably 0.5 to 8%, more preferably 0.75 to 6% by weight based ontotal weight of the composition.

Examples of anionic hair styling polymers are:

copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid; terpolymers of vinylacetate, crotonic acid and a vinyl ester of an alpha-branched saturatedaliphatic monocarboxylic acid such as vinyl neodecanoate;copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride (molar ratio about1:1) wherein such copolymers are 50% esterified with a saturated alcoholcontaining from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol or butanol;acrylic copolymers containing acrylic acid or methacrylic acid as theanionic radical-containing moiety with other monomers such as: esters ofacrylic or methacrylic acid with one or more saturated alcohols havingfrom 1 to 22 carbon atoms (such as methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate,ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl acrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butylmethacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl acrylate, n-octyl acrylate,lauryl methacrylate and behenyl acrylate);glycols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms (such as hydroxypropylmethacrylate and hydroxyethyl acrylate);styrene; vinyl caprolactam; vinyl acetate; acrylamide; alkyl acrylamidesand methacrylamides having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group (suchas methacrylamide, t-butyl acrylamide and n-octyl acrylamide); and othercompatible unsaturated monomers.

The polymer may also contain grafted silicone, such aspolydimethylsiloxane.

Specific examples of suitable anionic hair styling polymers are:

RESYNâ 28-2930 available from National Starch (vinyl acetate/crotonicacid/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer);ULTRAHOLDâ 8 available from BASF (CTFA designation Acrylates/acrylamidecopolymer);the GANTREZâES series available from ISP corporation (esterifiedcopolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride).

Other suitable anionic hair styling polymers include carboxylatedpolyurethanes. Carboxylated polyurethane resins are linear,hydroxyl-terminated copolymers having pendant carboxyl groups. They maybe ethoxylated and/or propoxylated at least at one terminal end. Thecarboxyl group can be a carboxylic acid group or an ester group, whereinthe alkyl moiety of the ester group contains one to three carbon atoms.The carboxylated polyurethane resin can also be a copolymer ofpolyvinylpyrrolidone and a polyurethane, having a CTFA designationPVP/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester. Suitable carboxylated polyurethaneresins are disclosed in EP-A-0619111 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,000,955. Othersuitable hydrophilic polyurethanes are disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos.3,822,238; 4,156,066; 4,156,067; 4,255,550; and 4,743,673.

Amphoteric hair styling polymers which can contain cationic groupsderived from monomers such as t-butyl aminoethyl methacrylate as well ascarboxyl groups derived from monomers such as acrylic acid ormethacrylic acid can also be used in the present invention. One specificexample of an amphoteric hair styling polymer is Amphomera(Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer) soldby the National Starch and Chemical Corporation.

Examples of nonionic hair styling polymers are homopolymers ofN-vinylpyrrolidone and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with compatiblenonionic monomers such as vinyl acetate. Nonionic polymers containingN-vinylpyrrolidone in various weight average molecular weights areavailable commercially from ISP Corporation—specific examples of suchmaterials are homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone having an averagemolecular weight of about 630,000 sold under the name PVP K-90 and arehomopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone having an average molecular weight ofabout 1,000,000 sold under the name of PVP K-120.

Other suitable nonionic hair styling polymers are cross-linked siliconeresins or gums. Specific examples include rigid silicone polymers suchas those described in EP-A-0240350 and cross-linked silicone gums suchas those described in WO 96/31188.

Examples of cationic hair styling polymers are copolymers ofamino-functional acrylate monomers such as lower alkyl aminoalkylacrylate, or methacrylate monomers such as dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, with compatible monomers such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, alkyl methacrylates (such as methyl methacrylate and ethylmethacrylate) and alkyl acrylates (such as ethyl acrylate and n-butylacrylate).

Specific examples of suitable cationic hair styling polymers are:

copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate,available from ISP Corporation as Copolymer 845, Copolymer 937 andCopolymer 958;copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropylacrylamide ormethacrylamide, available from ISP Corporation as Stylezea CC10;copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate;copolymers of vinylcaprolactam, N-vinylpyrrolidone anddimethylaminoethylmethacrylate;Polyquaternium-4 (a copolymer of diallyldimonium chloride andhydroxyethylcellulose);Polyquaternium-11 (formed by the reaction of diethyl sulphate and acopolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate),available from ISP as Gafquatâ 734, 755 and 755N, and from BASF asLuviquata PQ11;Polyquaternium-16 (formed from methylvinylimidazolium chloride andvinylpyrrolidone), available from BASF as Luviquatâ FC 370, FC 550, FC905 and HM-552;Polyquaternium-46 (prepared by the reaction of vinylcaprolactam andvinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulphate), availablefrom BASF as LuviquatâHold.

Examples of suitable naturally-derived hair styling polymers includeshellac, alginates, gelatins, pectins, cellulose derivatives andchitosan or salts and derivatives thereof. Commercially availableexamples include Kytamerâ (ex Amerchol) and Amazeâ (ex National Starch).

Also suitable for use as optional components in the compositions of theinvention are the ionic copolymers described in WO 93/03703, thepolysiloxane-grafted polymers disclosed in WO 93/23446, thesilicone-containing polycarboxylic acid copolymers described in WO95/00106 or WO 95/32703, the thermoplastic elastomeric copolymersdescribed in WO 95/01383, WO 95/06078, WO 95/06079 and WO 95/01384, thesilicone grafted adhesive polymers disclosed in WO 95/04518 or WO95/05800, the silicone macro-grafted copolymers taught in WO 96/21417,the silicone macromers of WO 96/32918, the adhesive polymers of WO98/48770 or WO 98/48771 or WO 98/48772 or WO 98/48776, the graftpolymers of WO 98/51261 and the grafted copolymers described in WO98/51755.

With certain of the above-described polymers it may be necessary toneutralise some acidic groups to promote solubility/dispersibility.Examples of suitable neutralising agents include2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (AMPD); 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol(AEPD); 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (AMP); 2-amino-1-butanol (AB);monoethanolamine (MEA); diethanolamine (DEA); triethanolamine (TEA);monoisopropanolamine (MIPA); diisopropanol-amine (DIPA);triisopropanolamine (TIPA); and dimethyl stearamine (DMS). A long chainamine neutralising agent such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine orlauramidopropyl dimethylamine may be employed, as is described in U.S.Pat. No. 4,874,604. Also suitable are inorganic neutralisers, examplesof which include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and borax.Mixtures of any of the above neutralising agents may be used. Amounts ofthe neutralising agents will range from about 0.001 to about 10% byweight of the total composition.

Compositions of the present invention are formulated into hair carecompositions with hair styling claims. The compositions are preferablyused to non-permanently style human hair and, more preferably, they arepackaged and labeled as such. The term non-permanently mean that duringthe styling process the inter cystine-disulphide bonds are not broken.This means that there are no reductive agents in the hair carecomposition.

It is preferred if the products are left on hair after application andnot immediately washed off (within 1 hour of application). Such productsare known as leave in compositions.

Preferred product forms are leave on formulations such as mousses,sprays and aerosols.

Alternative styling forms include gels, waxes and creams.

Such styling products frequently include a carrier and furtheradditional components. The carriers and additional components requiredto formulate such products vary with product type and can be routinelychosen by one skilled in the art. The following is a description of someof these carriers and additional components.

Hair care compositions of the present invention can comprise a carrier,or a mixture of such carriers, which are suitable for application to thehair. The carriers are present at from about 0.5% to about 99.5%,preferably from about 5.0% to about 99.5%, more preferably from about10.0% to about 98.0%, of the composition. As used herein, the phrase“suitable for application to hair” means that the carrier does notdamage or negatively affect the aesthetics of hair or cause irritationto the underlying skin.

Compositions according to the invention comprise a buffer or pHadjuster. Preferred buffers or pH adjusters include weak acids and basessuch glycine/sodium hydroxide, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid,acetic salt and salts thereof. Frequently a mixture of buffering systemis used such as sodium citrate and citric acid.

Carriers suitable for use with hair care compositions of the presentinvention include, for example, those used in the formulation of hairsprays, mousses, tonics, waters, creams gels, shampoos, conditioners,and rinses. The choice of appropriate carrier will depend on theparticular product to be formulated. The carriers used herein caninclude a wide range of components conventionally used in hair carecompositions. The carriers can contain a solvent to dissolve or dispersethe styling compound being used, with water, the C₁-C₆ alcohols, loweralkyl acetate and mixtures thereof being preferred. The carriers canalso contain a wide variety of additional materials such as acetone,hydrocarbons (such as isobutane, hexane, decene), halogenatedhydrocarbons (such as Freons) and volatile silicones such ascyclomethicone.

When the hair care composition is a hair spray, tonic, gel, or moussethe preferred solvents include water, ethanol, volatile siliconederivatives, and mixtures thereof. The solvents used in such mixturesmay be miscible or immiscible with each other. Mousses and aerosol hairsprays can also utilise any of the conventional propellants to deliverthe material as a foam (in the case of a mousse) or as a fine, uniformspray (in the case of an aerosol hair spray). Examples of suitablepropellants include materials such as trichlorofluoromethane,dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethylether, propane,n-butane or isobutane. A tonic or hair spray product having a lowviscosity may also utilise an emulsifying agent. Examples of suitableemulsifying agents include nonionic, cationic, anionic surfactants, ormixtures thereof. If such an emulsifying agent is used, it is preferablypresent at a level of from about 0.01% to about 7.5% by weight based ontotal weight of the composition. The level of propellant can be adjustedas desired but is generally from about 3% to about 30% by weight basedon total weight for mousse compositions and from about 15% to about 50%by weight based on total weight for aerosol hair spray compositions.

Hair styling waxes, creams or gels also typically contain a structurantor thickener, typically in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight.

Suitable spray containers are well known in the art and includeconventional, non-aerosol pump sprays i.e., “atomisers”, aerosolcontainers or cans having propellant, as described above, and also pumpaerosol containers utilising compressed air as the propellant.

The formulation may include conditioning materials such as surfactants,cationic conditioners suitable for hair, quaternary silicone polymers,silicone based conditioners and their emulsions, and amino functionalsilicones and their emulsions.

Further general ingredients suitable for all product forms include,sun-screening agents, anti-dandruff actives, carboxylic acid polymerthickeners for hair shampoo and conditioner compositions and emulsifiersfor emulsifying the various carrier components of the compositions ofthe invention.

The compositions of the present invention may also contain adjunctssuitable for hair care. Generally such ingredients are includedindividually at a level of up to 2, preferably up to 1 wt % of the totalcomposition. Suitable hair care adjuncts, include amino acids, sugarsand ceramides.

The method of the invention comprises applying compositions of theinvention preferably followed by a heating step to a temperature above50° C., more preferably above 100° C., more preferably above 180° C.

The following non-limiting Examples further illustrate the preferredembodiments of the invention. All percentages referred to in theexamples and throughout this specification are by weight based on totalweight unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES

Hair switches used were dark brown European wavy Hair (waviness number6).

Experiment 1

Experiment 1: Dark brown European wavy switches of length 26 cm long andweight 2 gms, were soaked in 2% aqueous sugar solutions and styledstraight when wet using a comb. They were left to dry at 20° C. and 50%RH. When dry the switches were combed 10 times and pictures taken. Thevolume and feret length of the switches shows the straightening benefitof the sugars. All the numbers are an average between 2 and 6experiments.

Example Volume in mm{circumflex over ( )}2 A water (no sugar) 13347 BGlucose 12335 1 maltotriose 8322 2 maltotetraose 7468 3 G4 9487 4 G4 H10261 5 Hallodex 11067

From the table it can be seen that Examples of the invention gavestraightening and volume down benefits compared with the comparativeexamples.

It should be noted that Hallodex is maltosyltrehalose (the linkagesbetween the sugar groups are not all α1-4 linkages).

Experiment 2

The combing cream formulation details are given below:

Example Example Example Trade Name Chemical (INCI) Name Supplier 7 8 DFibre G4 syrup Hayashibara 2 5 0 Active Brij 72 Steareth-2 Uniqema 0.180.18 0.18 Myrj 52S PEG-40 Steareth-2 Uniqema 0.45 0.45 0.45 HydrenolCetearyl Alcohol Cognis 1.50 1.50 1.50 MY Tinovis CD Sodium AcrylatesCiba 0.80 0.80 0.80 Copolymer, Mineral oil, PPG-1 Trideceth-6 DC 7134Dimethyl Dow 0.740 0.740 0.740 methylaminoethyllamine Corning isobutylsiloxane DC 1788 Dimethiconol/Dimethiconol/ Dow 0.800 0.800 0.800Silsesquioxane Corning Copolymer Estol 1517 Isopropyl Palmitate Croda1.00 1.00 1.00 Glycerine Glycerine BDH 2.00 2.00 2.00 Water Water andminors To 100% To 100% To 100%

Dark brown European wavy hair switches of length 26 cm and weight 2 gms,were treated with 0.1 g of combing cream. The switches were left to dryat 20° C. and 50% RH. When dry the switches were combed 10 times andpictures taken and the volume and feret measured. All the numbers are anaverage of between 2 and 6 experiments.

Example Volume mm{circumflex over ( )}2 D 12100 7 10274 8 8504

Experiment 3

In this experiment the hair switches were straightened with hot irons.Straightening and anti-humidity benefits were seen. The table belowgives the final volume of 0.5 gms of 2% maltotriose aqueous solutionspump sprayed on switches, ironed 5 times and after 3 hours at 80% RH and30° C.

Example % sugar Final Volume in mm{circumflex over ( )}2 E 0% (water)15714 9 2% maltotriose 10696

Maltotriose show substantial anti-humidity benefits

Experiment 4

Maltotriose was delivered in a mousse formulation.

The mousse formulation given below:

Example Example Trade name Supplier INCI List F % w/w 10 % w/w Water —to 100 to 100 Genamin Clariant Behentrimonium 0.33 0.33 KDMP chlorideCetyl Helene Cetyl Alcohol 0.32 0.32 Alcohol Curtis Glydant Lonza DMDMHydantoin 0.5 0.5 plus UK Ltd Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate Stearyl HeleneStearyl 0.32 0.32 Alcohol Curtis Alcohol Emalex 710 Ikeda Laureth 10 1 1Corporation Isopropyl Cognis Isopropyl 2 2 Myristrate Myristatemaltotriose 0 2 AP 40 Harp Butane/ 8 8 International Propane/ Isobutane

The volumes given are for 0.5 gm of product applied to European waveyhair (described above). The switches were straightened with hot irons.

The table below gives the final volume of maltotriose dosed switchesafter 1.5 hrs at 80% RH and 30° C.

Example % maltotriose Final Volume in mm{circumflex over ( )}2 F 0%11943 10 2% 7066

1. A hair non-permanent styling composition comprising: i) anoligosaccharide comprising 3 to 7 sugar units in which the linkage groupbetween the sugar units is an α1-4 link; and ii) at least one furtheringredient selected from the group consisting of a suitable carrier, astyling polymer or a surfactant.
 2. A hair styling composition accordingto claim 1 in which the oligosaccharide comprises from 3 to 5 sugarunits.
 3. A hair styling composition according to any preceding claim inwhich the oligosaccharide is maltotriose and/or maltotetraose.
 4. A hairstyling composition according to any preceding claim in which theoligosaccharide is in the form of a syrup.
 5. A hair styling compositionaccording to any preceding claim in which the level of sugar is from 0.2to 5 wt % of the total composition.
 6. A hair styling compositionaccording to any preceding claim which further comprises a hair stylingpolymer.
 7. A hair styling composition according to any preceding claimin which the formulation is a mousse or spray.
 8. A hair stylingcomposition according to claim 7 in which the composition comprises ahydrocarbon based propellant.
 9. A hair styling composition according toany one of claims 1 to 7 that is a cream, gel or wax.
 10. A hair stylingcomposition according to any preceding claim that is a leave incomposition.
 11. A method of non-permanently styling hair comprising thestep of applying to the hair a composition as described in any precedingclaim.
 12. A method according to any claim 11 in which the hair isheated to a temperature above 50° C.
 13. Use of an oligosaccharidecomprising 3 to 7 sugar units, in which the linkages between the sugarunits are α1-4 links, to style hair.